Khaite opened Spring 2027 on a white bra and handmade corsetry; Mary P. Jacob's 1914 brassière patent classes it with corset covers
Khaite showed Spring 2027 on Saturday night, 12 September 2026, at the Brooklyn Storehouse in the Brooklyn Navy Yard. Much of the lineup drew on romantic, lingerie-inspired silhouettes from the 1920s to the 1940s. Catherine Holstein traced the softer turn to a martini at the Gritti Palace in Venice, where she and her husband, the architect Griffin Frazen, spend a lot of time.
Mary P. Jacob of Mamaroneck, New York, filed on 12 February 1914 for 'Improvements in Brassières'. The specification says earlier garments 'required lacing or other fastening of parts across the back of the wearer'. Hers, with no back, 'does not interfere with any design of evening gown'.
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The post, as it ran
01KHAITE OPENED SPRING 2027 WITH KAIA GERBER IN A WHITE BRA
AND A HIGH-WAISTED BLACK LEATHER SKIRT.
02HER BRA WAS HAND-FINISHED WITH BASTING STITCHES. THE BACK OF THE SKIRT WAS 'ALL DONE BY HAND, ALL CORSETRY,' CATHERINE HOLSTEIN SAID.
03PAST THE OPENING LOOK: FLOWER EMBROIDERED LACE DRESSES, PASTEL SHIFTS AND DIAPHANOUS MOUSSELINE TRAPEZE TOPS AND SKIRTS.
04MUCH OF THE COLLECTION WAS EDGED IN HORSEHAIR RUFFLES.
05THE EMBROIDERIES ON THE BIBS OF THE ROBE DE STYLE-ESQUE DRESSES GO BACK TO THE COLLECTION'S STARTING POINT, VENICE.
06ON 3 NOVEMBER 1914, MARY P. JACOB OF MAMARONECK, NEW YORK,
WAS GRANTED US PATENT 1,115,674 FOR A BRASSIÈRE.
07IT HAD NO BACK. IT HAD NO BONES EITHER, SO IT COULD BE
'FINISHED WITH LACES OR EMBROIDERIES.'
08THE PATENT ADDS THAT IT 'MAY BE WORN EVEN BY PERSONS
ENGAGED IN VIOLENT EXERCISE SUCH AS TENNIS.'
09IT WAS OF 'THE GENERAL TYPE KNOWN AS CORSET COVERS', MADE TO 'CONCEAL THE CORSET TOP'. KHAITE'S LACE DRESSES WERE FINISHED WITH EXTERIOR BASQUES.