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Jenn Lee's SS27 show at London Fashion Week, seen firsthand: peaked shoulders, red silk satin, the cheongsam cut in full, and a black brushstroke on pale pink

Jenn Lee showed her SS27 collection at fabric London, the Farringdon nightclub, in the brick vaults downstairs. The reference everyone will reach for is gothic, and the clothes earn it: powdered white faces, black on black, a red light on the floor. What sits underneath it is more specific. The mandarin collar and the curved front closure of the cheongsam run through the collection, sometimes as the whole garment, sometimes as a collar on something else entirely. The label is Taiwanese, London showing, and describes its own work as heritage craftsmanship taken through technology. This is what that looks like when the heritage is a dress shape and the technology is a shoulder engineered to stand up on its own.

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The post, as it ran

01JENN LEE SHOWED SS27 IN THE BRICK VAULTS UNDER FABRIC LONDON, ON A RUNWAY LIT RED ON PURPOSE.
02THE SHOULDER IS THE COLLECTION. CUT TO A HARD UPWARD POINT AND BUILT OUT PAST THE BODY, ON FLOOR-LENGTH DRESSES AND ON CROPPED JACKETS ALIKE.
03A RED SILK SATIN DRESS CARRIED IT FURTHEST: HIGH NECK, LONG SLEEVES, THE BODY RUCHED, THE SKIRT DRAPED ASYMMETRIC AND TRAILING BEHIND.
04THE CHEONGSAM ARRIVES IN FULL. MANDARIN COLLAR, A KEYHOLE OPEN AT THE THROAT, THE CLOSURE CURVING ACROSS TO THE UNDERARM, CUT TO THE TOP OF THE THIGH.
05ON ANOTHER LOOK THE FASTENINGS RUN THE WHOLE FRONT IN A ROW OF KNOTTED TOGGLES, WORN OVER A HIGH-CUT BODY.
06ONE DRESS IN PALE PINK CARRIED A SINGLE BLACK BRUSHSTROKE FROM SHOULDER TO HEM.
07CUT-OUTS ARE HELD WITH CORD AND TIES, AND RED IS SET UNDER BLACK SO IT SHOWS THROUGH THE SLIT.
08THE CASTING WALKED POWDERED WHITE, ACROSS A DARK POLISHED FLOOR WASHED RED.
09JENN LEE IS TAIWANESE AND SHOWS IN LONDON, A DECADE IN. THE STUDIO'S OWN LINE IS HERITAGE CRAFT PUT THROUGH TECHNOLOGY.
10FABRIC IS A NIGHTCLUB THE REST OF THE YEAR. THE CLOTHES WERE CUT FOR EXACTLY THAT ROOM.
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