McQueen SS27 Angels in the Dark at Lincoln's Inn Chapel: Sean McGirr's first London show, angel-wing tailoring, three Huntsman suits after Tommy Nutter, Shaun Leane's silver harness

McQueen's SS27 show, Angels in the Dark, brought the house back to the city it was founded in, with a Savile Row tailor and Lee McQueen's jeweller both on the credits. Huntsman cut the men's looks in heritage British wools, to proportions the house describes as elongated, with exaggerated shoulders. Shaun Leane's harness arrives through a new atelier of his called 12, and he also lent archive pieces from two of Lee McQueen's own shows, Joan and Pantheon ad Lucem. McGirr has led the house since October 2023, from its studio in Clerkenwell. His line on the move: "London is about being free." Camille Bidault-Waddington styled it, Anthony Turner did the hair, and Shard Voices were the choir.

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The post, as it ran

01McQUEEN SHOWED IN LONDON ON 20 SEPTEMBER, UNDER LINCOLN'S INN CHAPEL. IT WAS SEÁN McGIRR'S FIRST LONDON SHOW FOR THE HOUSE, AFTER YEARS IN PARIS.

02McGIRR IS THE IRISH DESIGNER WHO HAS LED McQUEEN SINCE 2023. HE CALLED THE COLLECTION ANGELS IN THE DARK.

03THE ROOM IS AN OPEN STONE VAULT BUILT IN THE 1620S, WITH THE NAMES OF THE DEAD CUT INTO ITS FLOOR. GUESTS SAT ON PLAIN WOODEN BENCHES.

04HE SET TWO LONDONS AGAINST EACH OTHER. ONE IS A PAINTING HE STARED AT AS A STUDENT IN THE NATIONAL GALLERY: PIERO DELLA FRANCESCA'S THE BAPTISM OF CHRIST.

05THE OTHER IS THE CITY'S RAVES. HAIR WAS PULLED INTO TWIN PEAKS AFTER KEITH FLINT OF THE PRODIGY, AND THE MUSIC WAS BY THE PRODUCER A.G. COOK.

06THE TAILORING CARRIED THE ANGELS. JACKET SHOULDERS WERE CLOSED OVER AND BUILT UP TO LOOK LIKE FOLDED WINGS, ABOVE HIGH, NARROW WAISTS.

07THREE MEN'S SUITS WERE MADE BY HUNTSMAN, THE SAVILE ROW TAILOR FOUNDED IN 1849. IT IS THE THIRD TIME THE TWO HOUSES HAVE WORKED TOGETHER.

08McGIRR DREW THEM AFTER TOMMY NUTTER, THE TAILOR WHO DRESSED THE BEATLES, AND WHOM HE CALLS "THE FIRST REBEL OF SAVILE ROW".

09SHAUN LEANE, THE JEWELLER WHO WORKED BESIDE LEE McQUEEN FOR YEARS, RETURNED WITH A HARNESS HANDMADE IN RECYCLED SILVER.

10AROUND THE TAILORING CAME SMOKED TULLE, GLASSY ORGANZA, LACQUERED SATIN AND ACID FLORAL PRINTS. A CHOIR SANG. THE HOUSE CAME HOME LOUD.

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