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Chopova Lowena's SS27 show on a London bowling alley: Slavic folklore witches Baba Yaga and Morana, the 1950s bowler Marion Ladewig, a tapestry carabiner skirt and clip-on modular layers

Chopova Lowena called its SS27 show X/LUCKY SPIRIT LOST STRIKE/X, and invited "all witches, nymphs and ghouls" to the livestream. The designers described their muses as folklore figures "placed to set rules", sinister spirits who in the same stories guarded homes or announced the spring. Morana's rite survives: in Poland, Slovakia and the Czech Republic an effigy in women's clothes is still burned or drowned in a river when winter ends. The modular pieces work off the runway as well. The carabiner panels and snap-on aprons that built the layered looks can be clipped onto jeans, and they arrived beside a new line of Clubhouse merchandise. On the dogs: the label says vets advised on the outfits and were in the room for fittings and for the show.

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The post, as it ran

01CHOPOVA LOWENA SHOWED ITS SPRING COLLECTION DOWN THE LANES OF A LONDON BOWLING ALLEY, WITH FOLKLORE WITCHES AND A BOWLING CHAMPION AS ITS MUSES.
02THE LABEL IS EMMA CHOPOVA AND LAURA LOWENA, A LONDON DUO KNOWN FOR PLEATED SKIRTS HUNG FROM CLIMBING CLIPS. THE SHOW WAS 19 SEPTEMBER.
03THE MUSES CAME FROM SLAVIC FOLKLORE: BABA YAGA, THE FOREST WITCH, AND MORANA, THE WINTER GODDESS WHOSE EFFIGY IS DROWNED TO BRING SPRING.
04MORANA ARRIVED AS A CROPPED SHRUG, A LOW SKIRT AND A WHITE CORSET WITH BONING THAT TRACED OUT A RIBCAGE.
05BABA YAGA WAS A BLACK DRESS BRISTLING WITH SPIKES AND SPIKY FLOWERS, ALL CUT FROM CHIFFON.
06THE OTHER MUSE WAS MARION LADEWIG, THE AMERICAN BOWLING CHAMPION OF THE 1950S. SHE BROUGHT BOWLING SHIRTS, STRIPED JERSEY AND POPLIN BOXER SHORTS.
07FOLK DRESS SHOWED UP IN BIG PUFF SLEEVES, BANDS OF RUFFLES AND BEADWORK. THE HOUSE TARTANS SAT AGAINST FURRY AND DEADSTOCK CLOTH.
08THE CARABINER SKIRT CAME BACK IN TAPESTRY, THE FABRIC THE LABEL STARTED OUT WITH.
09THE NEW IDEA IS MODULAR. SNAP-ON APRONS AND CARABINER PANELS BUILT THE FULL RUNWAY LAYERS, AND CAN CLIP ONTO A PAIR OF JEANS INSTEAD.

From the archive

ArchiveArchiveChopova Lowena's carabiner skirt was written off by early buyers, and it became the label's best selling piece7 beatsRead Open on Instagram