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Aaron Esh SS27 at the Electric Ballroom, London Fashion Week: the dark-palette designer's turn to shocking pink

Aaron Esh showed his spring 2027 collection at the Electric Ballroom in Camden on 18 September, after sitting out the February season. He has been chief creative officer of AllSaints since November 2025 and keeps his own label running alongside it. Casting and fittings for this show happened inside the AllSaints offices in east London. He was an LVMH Prize finalist in 2023 and took his MA at Central Saint Martins. The finish is where the extra year went. Linings are satin, collars are backed in leather, and a pair of crocodile-effect leggings is built from individually cut pieces of leather embroidered together. His show notes put the colour plainly: "They collide rather than coordinate."

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01AARON ESH, A LONDON DESIGNER KNOWN FOR BLACK, NAVY AND GREY, SHOWED HIS SPRING 2027 COLLECTION IN SHOCKING PINK ON 18 SEPTEMBER.
02THE VENUE WAS THE ELECTRIC BALLROOM, A MUSIC VENUE IN CAMDEN. HE WANTED THE SOUNDTRACK PAINFULLY LOUD, AND GOT IT.
03THE BASE STAYED BLUE, BLACK AND GREY. OVER IT WENT HOT PINK, CRIMSON, TURQUOISE AND PURPLE, PLACED TO CLASH RATHER THAN MATCH.
04HOT PINK LEATHER JACKETS WENT OVER MATCHING T-SHIRTS. THIN ORGANZA DRESSES SHOWED LAYERS OF TURQUOISE AND RED UNDERNEATH.
05A FEATHERED SKIRT IN THE SAME PINK WAS WORN WITH A GREY ZIP-UP BLAZER AND A LEATHER HOOD.
06ESH'S OWN NAME FOR HIS SALMON PINK LEATHER IS VOMIT PINK. HE ALSO CALLS IT PUNK. A VERY LONDON COMPLIMENT.
07THE DARK PIECES STAYED TOO: LOW-SLUNG LEATHER TROUSERS, CHOCOLATE BROWN FAUX-FUR COATS, AND TRENCH COATS IN SOFT, UNLINED COTTON.
08ONE COAT IS MADE OF ORGANZA, A SHEER, CRISP FABRIC, CUT INTO STRIPS, BRUSHED BY HAND AND EMBROIDERED BACK ON AS SMALL PETALS.
09THAT COAT TOOK MORE THAN 100 HOURS TO MAKE. IT IS FULLY LINED.
10HE SAT OUT THE FEBRUARY SHOWS TO GET HERE, AND SPENT ABOUT A YEAR ON THIS ONE COLLECTION.
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