Jil Sander SS27 in Milan: Simone Bellotti's answer to minimalism going mainstream

Jil Sander showed spring 2027 in Milan, and Simone Bellotti's argument is that doing minimalism well is no longer enough. His own diagnosis is that the look has spread everywhere, high and low, so precision on its own no longer reads as anything. The answer he has settled on is imprecision: tailoring done rigorously and then knocked very slightly out of true, so a garment looks correct from across a room and wrong up close. This is his third collection for the house, a year on from his debut there. His own line on what he is working against: the uniform is always associated with being tough and strong and powerful.

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01JIL SANDER'S SPRING 2027 COLLECTION SET OUT TO MAKE MINIMALISM LOOK SLIGHTLY WRONG ON PURPOSE.

02THIS WAS SIMONE BELLOTTI'S THIRD COLLECTION FOR JIL SANDER. HE MADE HIS DEBUT THERE A YEAR AGO. IT SHOWED IN MILAN ON 23 SEPTEMBER.

03HIS REASON, IN HIS OWN WORDS: "MINIMALISM HAS BECOME SO MAINSTREAM."

04SO HE ADDED SOMETHING "A BIT WRONG IN A WAY", HIS PHRASE FOR A NOTE OF IMPRECISION.

05HE BUILT THE COLLECTION LIKE A WAVE. IT OPENS ON A COLLARLESS BLACK LEATHER COAT DRESS AND CLOSES ON A JACKET, A SPLAYED COLLAR SHIRT AND FLARED TROUSERS.

06IN BETWEEN, TWO BLAZERS CAME WITH A PERMANENT RUMPLE BUILT INTO THEM.

07SHIRT COLLARS WERE CUT TOO LARGE, SO THEY STICK OUT ABOVE THE JACKET LAPELS.

08HE MOVED THE BUTTONS UP THE JACKET. ON THE DOUBLE-BREASTED ONES THEY SIT NEAR THE ADAM'S APPLE, LEAVING THE FRONT TO SWING OPEN.

09A SLIP DRESS'S RUFFLES LOOK PRESSED FLAT, AS THOUGH THEY HAD BEEN LEFT INSIDE A LARGE BOOK.

10THE RELEASE CAME AT THE END: WIDE, WAFTING DRESSES, INCLUDING A YELLOW ONE THAT LOOKS MADE FROM DRAPED TAFFETA BEDSHEETS.

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