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Marni · SS27 · Milan25 September 2026

Marni SS27 in Milan: Meryll Rogge's second collection, built by editing the archive rather than replacing it

Marni's spring 2027 collection took the 14:00 slot on the Milan calendar, and it is Meryll Rogge's second for the house. Her predecessor Francesco Risso had nearly ten years there. OTB, which owns Marni, announced her on 15 July 2025, with Renzo Rosso saying she had impressed them with the sensitivity she brought to reinterpreting the brand's DNA, and Rogge saying she was honoured to join a house she had long admired for its independent spirit. The colour runs deliberately dissonant, with patterns clashing inside single garments. Accessories carry the same logic: suede boots with straps and hardware, oversized bags, large earrings. She trained under Dries Van Noten before starting her own label.

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The post, as it ran

01MERYLL ROGGE'S SECOND MARNI COLLECTION RAN IN MILAN ON 24 SEPTEMBER, AND HER STARTING QUESTION WAS WHAT TO KEEP.

02IN HER OWN WORDS, THE WORK WAS "WHAT TO ADD TO THE LANGUAGE, WHAT TO TAKE AWAY".

03SHE WAS NAMED CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF MARNI IN JULY 2025, TAKING OVER FROM FRANCESCO RISSO. HER FIRST COLLECTION WAS AUTUMN WINTER 2026.

04SHE TREATS THE ARCHIVE AS A BOX TO STEAL FROM RATHER THAN A TIMELINE. A SIXTIES INFLUENCE CAME THROUGH ALMOST UNCONSCIOUSLY.

05SACK DRESSES CAME IN RAW CALFSKIN, TOUGHER THAN THEIR SHAPE SUGGESTS, SET OFF BY MODERNIST EMBROIDERY.

06A BEJEWELLED APPLIQUE WAS LIFTED OFF ONE GARMENT AND PUT ON ANOTHER, CLOSER TO A FOUND OBJECT THAN AN ORNAMENT.

07GARMENTS ARE INTERRUPTED ON PURPOSE: OPENINGS, METAL LOOPS, AND EMBROIDERY LEFT UNFINISHED.

08CAPRI TROUSERS, SEVENTIES A-LINE DRESSES, PENCIL SKIRTS, AFGHAN COATS AND TECHNICAL OUTERWEAR, WITH KNEE SOCKS AND STRAPPED BALLET SHOES.

09SOFTNESS SEEPS INTO STRUCTURE, SPORTSWEAR UNSETTLES TAILORING, AND USEFUL DETAILS EAT INTO DECORATION.

10WHAT SHE WANTED, IN HER OWN WORDS, WAS "A SENSE OF CONTINUITY".

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