Emporio Armani SS27, Traces of Time: the last collection overseen by Silvana Armani
Emporio Armani's spring 2027 collection, Traces of Time, was the last overseen by Silvana Armani and Leo Dell'Orco before Dario Vitale takes the line.
The colour ran white to black through green, grey and greige, and the surfaces carried the theme literally: felted-wool ikat and fern jacquards that read like fossils, and treated salt crystals worked into the cloth.
Vitale's own words on the appointment were that it is an honour to take on the dual role, and that the work is to build on the house's heritage while defining a new era. Before Armani he had a short spell as creative director of Versace.
Silvana Armani and Leo Dell'Orco are not leaving. They keep the principal Giorgio Armani collections, which is where the house's continuity sits.
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The post, as it ran
01TRACES OF TIME WAS THE LAST EMPORIO ARMANI COLLECTION OVERSEEN BY SILVANA ARMANI AND LEO DELL'ORCO. IT RAN IN MILAN ON 24 SEPTEMBER.
02DARIO VITALE TAKES OVER AS CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF EMPORIO ARMANI AND GIORGIO ARMANI ACCESSORIES. HIS FIRST COLLECTION WILL BE AUTUMN WINTER 2027.
03HE IS THE FIRST CREATIVE LEADER BROUGHT IN FROM OUTSIDE THE ARMANI FAMILY FOR A ROLE OF THIS WEIGHT.
04HE SPENT FOURTEEN YEARS AT MIU MIU UNDER MIUCCIA PRADA, AS DESIGN DIRECTOR OF READY-TO-WEAR AND HEAD OF IMAGE.
05SILVANA ARMANI REMAINS HEAD OF WOMENSWEAR DESIGN AND LEO DELL'ORCO HEAD OF MENSWEAR DESIGN ON THE GIORGIO ARMANI LINE.
06IT WAS A PRESENTATION RATHER THAN A SHOW, RUNNING DOWN THE ENTRYWAY AND INTO THE ATRIUM OF ARMANI/TEATRO.
07GIORGIO ARMANI OPENED THAT SPACE ON VIA BERGOGNONE IN 2001. TADAO ANDO DESIGNED IT.
08THE OPENING TWO LOOKS WERE PLACED SIDE BY SIDE: PEAKED-LAPEL SUITS IN LIGHT WHITE CRUSHED FABRIC, ONE MAN'S, ONE WOMAN'S.
09A BOMBER CARRIED IRREGULAR HORIZONTAL LINES LIKE THE RINGS OF A TREE. AN ACID-WASHED TRENCH READ LIKE A SPLIT SEAM OF MARBLE.
10GIORGIO ARMANI DIED IN SEPTEMBER 2025. VITALE'S APPOINTMENT WAS ANNOUNCED IN SEPTEMBER 2026.