01WEEKLY ROUNDUP, W/E 27 SEPTEMBER. MILAN, 22 TO 27 SEPTEMBER, IN THE ORDER IT HAPPENED. PRADA OPENED ON 22 SEPTEMBER WITH A COLLECTION MADE ALMOST ENTIRELY OF SKIRTS: KNEE-LENGTH AND MINI, WOOL KILTS WITH RAW EDGES, FLOWERED ONES ENCRUSTED HEAVILY ENOUGH TO CLINK. THE SAME DAY VOGUE WORLD PUT HUMANOID ROBOTS INTO THE GALLERIA.
02DIESEL, 22 SEPTEMBER: GLENN MARTENS' LAST COLLECTION AFTER LEADING THE HOUSE SINCE 2020, SHOWN IN A CLUB BUILT INSIDE THE VENUE WITH 200 PERFORMERS FROM (LA)HORDE SEATED AMONG THE GUESTS. THE DENIM WAS COATED AND LASERED TO READ AS LEATHER. ELLA SNYDER, WHO OPENED HIS FIRST DIESEL SHOW, CLOSED HIS LAST.
0323 SEPTEMBER. FENDI WALKED INSIDE A MIRRORED BOX TAKEN FROM LUCIANO FABRO'S CUBO DI SPECCHI, TO A 1972 CELENTANO RECORD SUNG IN GIBBERISH. MM6 TOOK THE BORSA ITALIANA AND WORE A SHIRT AS A SKIRT. ETRO'S HALO WAS DESIGNED BY ITS OWN STYLE TEAM WHILE THE HOUSE AWAITS A CREATIVE DIRECTOR. JIL SANDER SET OUT TO MAKE MINIMALISM LOOK SLIGHTLY WRONG ON PURPOSE.
0424 SEPTEMBER. MAX MARA'S FAR HORIZON, AT THE PALAZZO DEL GHIACCIO, WAS BUILT ON FIVE WOMEN WHO TRAVELLED IN THE 1930S, THE SAFARI JACKET RECUT AT EVERY LENGTH. MARNI WAS MERYLL ROGGE'S SECOND COLLECTION, BUILT ON WHAT TO KEEP. EMPORIO ARMANI'S TRACES OF TIME WAS THE LAST OVERSEEN BY SILVANA ARMANI AND LEO DELL'ORCO; DARIO VITALE TAKES OVER FROM AUTUMN WINTER 2027.
0525 SEPTEMBER. GUCCI'S THE STORE SHOW RAN IN A VENUE BUILT AS A STORE, THE BACKSTAGE WORK PUT IN FRONT, BELTS IN THREE WIDTHS, OVERSIZED TAILORING. DEMNA CALLS IT THE FIRST COLLECTION CARRYING HIS COMPLETE PERSONAL VISION, AFTER A YEAR SPENT WORKING OUT WHAT GUCCI STANDS FOR. HIS ANSWER: LUXURY THAT WANTS TO BE SEEN.
0625 SEPTEMBER. MOSCHINO: LORIS MESSINA AND SIMONE RIZZO'S FIRST COLLECTION, SENT OUT ALONGSIDE A CROWD WHO WERE NOT MODELS; THEIR NOTES SAID THE APPEAL OF IRREVERENCE LIES IN PRECISION. LORO PIANA PRESENTED IN THE BIBLIOTECA BRAIDENSE, EACH GARMENT PRESENTED BY THE PROBLEM IT SOLVES. VIKTOR & ROLF OPENED THEIR FIRST SOLO EXHIBITION IN ITALY AT 10 CORSO COMO, TWENTY COUTURE LOOKS HUNG IN PAIRS.
0726 SEPTEMBER, MORNING. NEITHAN HERBERT, BORN IN ECUADOR AND RAISED IN MEXICO, OPENED HIS DEBUT WITH HIS MOTHER UNDOING HER BRAIDS AND THE FIVE WOMEN WHO SEW HIS CLOTHES BESIDE HER. FERRAGAMO TOOK THE TRIENNALE, MEN AND WOMEN IN ONE LINE-UP, MAXIMILIAN DAVIS WORKING FROM LEE MILLER'S YEARS IN EGYPT: SAFARI JACKETS, BELTS DOUBLED AT THE WAIST, GLOSSY LATEX, ANOK YAI CLOSING IN SEQUINS.
0826 SEPTEMBER, AFTERNOON. DOLCE & GABBANA SENT OUT A GRANDMOTHER'S WARDROBE WORN WITH JEANS, JENNIFER LOPEZ IN THE FRONT ROW, WITH THE ACCOUNTS BEHIND IT: REVENUE DOWN 2 PER CENT TO 1.86 BILLION EUROS, AN OPERATING LOSS ABOVE 100 MILLION, LOAN TESTS SUSPENDED UNTIL MARCH 2028. MSGM CHANGED ITS LOGO THE DAY BEFORE AND PUT MARIO SCHIFANO'S STARS ON THE CLOTHES.
0926 SEPTEMBER, 20:00. BOTTEGA VENETA CLOSED THE DAY WITH LOUISE TROTTER'S THIRD SHOW: THE LEATHER AND RAFFIA TOTES DOUBLED IN SIZE, INTRECCIATO ON A MEN'S TRENCH AND TALL BOOTS, SUITS IN YELLOW, RED AND PURPLE, PARROT TULIPS OF LEATHER ON THE SET, KENDALL JENNER CLOSING WHILE JACOB ELORDI, JULIANNE MOORE AND TRAVIS SCOTT WATCHED.
1027 SEPTEMBER. GIORGIO ARMANI CLOSED THE WEEK AT 11:00 ON VIA BERGOGNONE, WHERE THE FOUNDER OPENED HIS THEATRE IN 2001. THE ITALIAN CHAMBER'S OWN COUNT FOR THE WEEK WAS 203 APPOINTMENTS. PARIS OPENS ON MONDAY 28 SEPTEMBER AND RUNS TO 6 OCTOBER.