Chloé SS27 Obsession by Chemena Kamali: broderie anglaise on cotton and organza, romantic harnesses, fishermen's coats, smoky vinyl capes, the scalloped 1972 Lagerfeld suit
Gaby Aghion founded Chloé in Paris in 1952 to sell luxury ready-to-wear, a new idea then, and Chemena Kamali started there in Phoebe Philo's team, came back as design director under Clare Waight Keller, and left for Saint Laurent in 2016 before returning as creative director.
At a preview she opened a book of Swiss embroidery samples from 1870 to 1930. Necklines came sweetheart, boatneck, scoopneck and off the shoulder. "When I think of a silhouette, I always think of first the neckline," she said.
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The post, as it ran
01OBSESSION IS WHAT CHEMENA KAMALI CALLED CHLOÉ'S SPRING 2027 COLLECTION, A RETURN TO THE HOUSE'S ARCHIVE BY WAY OF BRODERIE ANGLAISE.
02BRODERIE ANGLAISE IS EMBROIDERY PUNCTUATED BY SMALL DECORATIVE HOLES. SHE PUT IT ON CRISP COTTON AND SHEER ORGANZA.
03SHE TRACED THE PATTERNS TO 19TH-CENTURY NEEDLEWORK.
04THE LINGERIE CAME AS LACE CUT AWAY INTO WHAT SHE CALLED 'ROMANTIC HARNESSES'.
05FOR THE OUTERWEAR SHE LOOKED AT FISHERMEN: YELLOW COATS, AND HATS WITH VERY WIDE BRIMS.
06OVER THE CLOTHES WENT CAPES OF TRANSPARENT VINYL IN SMOKY SHADES.
07SHE ALSO WENT BACK TO A SCALLOPED 1972 CHLOÉ SUIT, FROM KARL LAGERFELD'S YEARS AT THE HOUSE.
08APPLE MARTIN, 22, THE DAUGHTER OF GWYNETH PALTROW AND CHRIS MARTIN, MADE HER RUNWAY DEBUT IN A WHITE EYELET DRESS.