01WEEKLY ROUNDUP, W/E 4 OCTOBER. PARIS, DAYS ONE TO SIX, IN THE ORDER IT HAPPENED. MONDAY 28 SEPTEMBER: JULIE KEGELS, 24 DAYS AFTER WINNING THE LVMH PRIZE, OPENED THE WEEK WITH APPLE OF THE DAY, A COLLECTION ABOUT GRAVITY, HEMS FILLED WITH SEQUINS. HODAKOVA WALKED ON SEA SALT. MATIÈRES FÉCALES PUT 99 MODELS OF COLOUR UNDER THE MONUMENT À LA RÉPUBLIQUE.
02TUESDAY 29 SEPTEMBER. DIOR DEDICATED ITS TUILERIES SHOW TO MATHILDE FAVIER, ITS PR DIRECTOR, WHO DIED ON 17 AUGUST AGED 57: 65 LOOKS, THE BAR JACKET SOFTENED. MAISON MARGIELA WALKED INSIDE WILTING FLOWER WALLS BY MARK COLLE, AN HOMAGE TO RAF SIMONS'S 2012 DIOR DEBUT. SAINT LAURENT AT THE TROCADÉRO, TEN YEARS AND TWO DAYS AFTER VACCARELLO'S FIRST SHOW: EVERY LOOK GOLD UNTIL A BLACK FINALE, AND NOT A SINGLE BAG.
03WEDNESDAY 30 SEPTEMBER. DREW HENRY'S FIRST COURRÈGES: 50 LOOKS, HATS REMADE FROM A JEAN BARTHET CLOCHE, THE 1964 MOON GIRL BOOTS BACK. BALMAIN AT KARL LAGERFELD'S FORMER HOME, EVENING DRESSES THAT LOOK HALF-PINNED. DRIES VAN NOTEN: 60 LOOKS PRINTED WITH POSTERS FOR FILMS THAT DON'T EXIST. STELLA McCARTNEY IN THE RAIN. TOM FORD IN A ROOM OF MIRRORS. VAQUERA'S DESIGNERS SANG I GOT YOU BABE.
04THURSDAY 1 OCTOBER. CHLOÉ'S OBSESSION, BRODERIE ANGLAISE ON COTTON AND ORGANZA, APPLE MARTIN'S RUNWAY DEBUT. PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI OPENED BALENCIAGA WITH A WHITE SHIRT GIVEN A PEPLUM BY ROWS OF STITCHING, AND JEANS CUT ON THE BIAS, AT THE TENNIS CLUB DE PARIS. RICK OWENS BUILT A RAMP OVER THE POOL AT THE PALAIS DE TOKYO AND WRAPPED FEET IN CRYSTAL. SCHIAPARELLI SAT ITS GUESTS AT CAFÉ TABLES.
05FRIDAY 2 OCTOBER. LOEWE IN A TWO-TIER SCAFFOLD ARENA AT THE CHÂTEAU DE VINCENNES, POLO SHIRTS WORN BACKWARDS. ISSEY MIYAKE OPENED WITH DANCERS UNDER ONE VAST PIECE OF FABRIC. CASABLANCA TOOK THE FRENCH COMMUNIST PARTY'S NIEMEYER DOME. GIVENCHY SLICED SUIT JACKETS OPEN AT THE SIDES. YOHJI YAMAMOTO: 42 LOOKS OF FRINGE. VICTORIA BECKHAM HUNG DRESSES FROM CHAINS. LANVIN CUT PLASTRONS FROM JEANNE LANVIN'S OWN INDIAN TEXTILES.
06SATURDAY 3 OCTOBER, MORNING. JUNYA WATANABE'S FUNKY, A CRYSTAL CHANDELIER WORN AS A DRESS. CELINE UNDER A THATCHED ROOF AT THE ARCHIVES NATIONALES, DORIAN COREY OF PARIS IS BURNING QUOTED. NOIR KEI NINOMIYA'S PETAL REBELLION, FLOWERS IN THE MODELS' MOUTHS. VIVIENNE WESTWOOD AT THE PALAIS DE LA FEMME, THE COLOUR BOUGHT IN THE FABRIC SHOPS OF BARBÈS.
07SATURDAY 3 OCTOBER, AFTERNOON. HERMÈS BUILT ON ONE WORD, AIR: LEATHER STRIPS STITCHED ONTO SILK MESH, ZIPS THAT TURN A MINI INTO A MIDI, AND A COUTURE DEBUT IN JANUARY. COMME DES GARÇONS CROWNED NEARLY EVERY LOOK AND ENDED IN DENIM. ANN DEMEULEMEESTER'S LONESOME HEAVEN, CHELSEA WOLFE LIVE, JOSH HOMME ON THE RUNWAY. ALAÏA PRESENTED WITHOUT A CREATIVE DIRECTOR, THE STUDIO'S WORK.
08OFF THE RUNWAY. ROGER LYNCH LEFT CONDÉ NAST FOR MATTEL; MIKE PERLIS IS INTERIM CHIEF EXECUTIVE. GALLIANO'S FIRST ZARA COLLECTION, RE(FORM), WENT ON SALE ON 1 OCTOBER. AEFFE, OWNER OF MOSCHINO, HAS A BINDING OFFER FROM OXY CAPITAL AT ABOUT 115 MILLION EUROS, THE THREE BRANDS SOLD SEPARATELY. NAOMI CAMPBELL WON HER APPEAL AGAINST A FIVE-YEAR CHARITY TRUSTEE BAN ON 1 OCTOBER.
09ALSO. RABANNE IS ABSENT FROM THE CALENDAR UNTIL OLIVIER ROUSTEING'S FIRST SHOW IN MARCH 2027. CHANEL TAKES BLAZY'S CRUISE TO DEAUVILLE ON 27 APRIL 2027, WHERE GABRIELLE CHANEL FIRST SOLD CLOTHES IN 1913. CAMPER REOPENED ITS OPÉRA STORE, REDESIGNED BY PIOVENEFABI. YEEZY'S KITTY UNDERWEAR WITH MOWALOLA CAME BACK IN STOCK.
10STILL TO COME. SUNDAY 4 OCTOBER: MIU MIU AT 13:00, VALENTINO AT 15:30, MUGLER AT 18:30, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER AT 20:00. MONDAY 5 OCTOBER: SACAI, GABRIELA HEARST, AND CHANEL AT 20:00. TUESDAY 6 OCTOBER: PIERRE CARDIN AT 17:00, THEN LOUIS VUITTON CLOSES THE WEEK AT 18:30.