01DURAN LANTINK SHOWED HIS FIRST HAUTE COUTURE FOR JEAN PAUL
GAULTIER AT PARIS COUTURE WEEK, A COLLECTION TITLED TECH
COUTURE. HE IS THE FIRST PERMANENT DESIGNER THE HOUSE HAS HAD
SINCE GAULTIER HIMSELF LEFT THE RUNWAY IN 2020.
02THE COLLECTION PUT MARIE ANTOINETTE THROUGH A 3D PRINTER.
BONED PANNIERS, CAGE CRINOLINES AND CORSETS, THE HARD
ARCHITECTURE OF EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY DRESS, WERE REBUILT IN
FLEXIBLE PRINTED PLASTIC AND FOAM, AND WORN AS IF WEIGHTLESS.
03LANTINK IS DUTCH, BORN IN THE HAGUE IN 1987, RAISED BY A SINGLE
MOTHER WHOSE GAULTIER CLOTHES HE CUT UP AS A CHILD. HE BUILT
HIS OWN LABEL IN 2019 ON UPCYCLING, REMAKING EXISTING
GARMENTS RATHER THAN CUTTING NEW CLOTH.
04THIS IS NOT AN OUTSIDER STUNT. HE TOOK THE KARL LAGERFELD PRIZE
AT THE 2024 LVMH AWARDS, A CLOSELY WATCHED YOUNG-
DESIGNER CONTEST. YEARS EARLIER HE MADE THE SCULPTED TROUSERS
JANELLE MONAE WORE IN THE 2018 PYNK VIDEO.
05GAULTIER CALLED HIM THE NEW ENFANT TERRIBLE, AND THE PHRASE IS
DELIBERATE. GAULTIER HELD THAT ROLE FOR DECADES, THE OUTSIDER
WHO PUT MEN IN SKIRTS AND A CONE BRA ON MADONNA. HE HAS
HANDED THE TITLE ON, BY CHOICE, TO SOMEONE WHO PRINTS CORSETS.
06SINCE 2020 THE HOUSE HAD ROTATED GUEST DESIGNERS AND DRIFTED
TOWARD A MUSEUM OF ITS FOUNDER. LANTINK IS THE BET THAT IT CAN
MAKE NEW TROUBLE INSTEAD. ON THE EVIDENCE OF A PRINTED
PANNIER, THE PROVOCATION SURVIVED THE SUCCESSION.