The maximalist they wrote off just got a second empire

When Alessandro Michele left Gucci, fashion called his maximalist moment over. Two years later Valentino handed him a house, and the mood swung right back to him.

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01WHEN ALESSANDRO MICHELE LEFT GUCCI AT THE END OF 2022, PLENTY OF PEOPLE CALLED HIS FLORAL, MAXIMALIST MOMENT OVER, A RELIC OF THE 2010S. TWO YEARS LATER HE WALKED INTO VALENTINO AND PROVED THE OPPOSITE. THE MAGPIE WAS NOT FINISHED. HE JUST NEEDED A NEW HOUSE.

02REMEMBER WHAT HE DID AT GUCCI. FROM 2015, MICHELE TURNED A TIRED LUXURY LABEL INTO FASHION'S LOUDEST ROMANTIC: CLASHING PRINTS, VINTAGE FRILLS, GENDER-BENDING GEEK-CHIC. GUCCI'S SALES SOARED, AND EVERY OTHER BRAND SCRAMBLED TO COPY THE MOOD.

03THEN THE MOOD TURNED. AS QUIET LUXURY TOOK OVER, MICHELE'S MAGPIE EXCESS SUDDENLY LOOKED OUT OF STEP, AND HE LEFT GUCCI. THE OBITUARIES WROTE THEMSELVES: THE MAXIMALIST KING, DETHRONED BY THE RETURN OF BEIGE AND THE RULE OF RESTRAINT.

04VALENTINO DISAGREED. IN 2024 IT HANDED HIM THE HOUSE PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI HAD LED FOR 25 YEARS, AND MICHELE DID NOT TONE HIMSELF DOWN ONE INCH. HIS SPRING DEBUT RAN 171 LOOKS OF ARCHIVE-DEEP, UNAPOLOGETIC ROMANCE. ELTON JOHN AND HARRY STYLES SAT FRONT ROW.

05AND THE TIMING TURNED OUT PERFECT. AS FASHION SWINGS BACK TOWARD COLOUR, ORNAMENT AND PERSONALITY, MICHELE'S WHOLE LANGUAGE IS SUDDENLY IN STEP AGAIN. THE DESIGNER DECLARED OUTDATED IS BACK AT THE FRONT OF THE MOOD HE HELPED INVENT.

06THAT IS THE LESSON IN HIM. FASHION LOVES TO DECLARE A LOOK DEAD, THEN RESURRECT IT A SEASON LATER. MICHELE DID NOT CHANGE TO SUIT THE TIMES. HE WAITED, AND THE TIMES CAME BACK AROUND TO HIM.

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