01CRAIG GREEN SENDS MEN DOWN THE RUNWAY WEARING PLYWOOD SCULPTURES
AND VAST, STRAPPED, TENT-LIKE FORMS, AND SOMEHOW IT LANDS AS DEEPLY
EMOTIONAL, SOME OF THE FINEST MENSWEAR IN FASHION. THE LONDON
DESIGNER TURNED THE HUMBLE WORKER'S JACKET INTO SOMETHING LIKE ART.
02HE CAME FROM CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS AND STARTED HIS LABEL IN 2012.
BY HIS 2013 DEBUT WITH THE MAN INITIATIVE, HE WAS ALREADY MASKING
MODELS IN JARRING PLYWOOD FRAMES. IT LOOKED LIKE PERFORMANCE ART.
IT WAS ALSO, UNDERNEATH, BEAUTIFULLY MADE CLOTHING.
03THE WORKER JACKET IS HIS OBSESSION. GREEN TAKES THE PLAINEST
GARMENT IN THE WORLD, A LABOURER'S UTILITY JACKET, AND REWORKS IT
EVERY SINGLE SEASON: KNOTTED, LAYERED, CORDED, TRANSFORMED. ONE
HUMBLE SHAPE, ENDLESSLY AND PATIENTLY REIMAGINED.
04AND THE CRAFT IS SERIOUS UNDER THE SPECTACLE. THE SCULPTURAL DRAMA
GETS THE HEADLINES, BUT GREEN IS, ABOVE ALL, A BRILLIANT MAKER:
PATTERN, CONSTRUCTION, THE WAY A GARMENT HOLDS THE BODY. THE
EMOTION COMES FROM THE MAKING, NOT JUST THE SHOW.
05THE INDUSTRY NOTICED FAST. GREEN WAS AN LVMH PRIZE FINALIST AND WON
BRITISH MENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR MORE THAN ONCE, AND HIS WORK
HAS EVEN SHAPED HOW COSTUME LOOKS IN FILM. RARE FOR MENSWEAR THIS
CONCEPTUAL TO ALSO BE THIS BELOVED.
06THAT IS THE ACHIEVEMENT. IN A MENSWEAR WORLD OF LOGOS AND HYPE
DROPS, GREEN MAKES QUIET, STRANGE, DEEPLY HUMAN CLOTHES ABOUT WORK,
PROTECTION AND RITUAL. THE PLYWOOD GETS THE ATTENTION. THE
TAILORING UNDERNEATH IS WHY IT LASTS.