01JUNYA WATANABE MAKES CLOTHES THAT MAKE YOU LOOK TWICE. A DENIM
JACKET THAT IS SECRETLY A DOZEN JACKETS SPLICED TOGETHER; A PARKA
ENGINEERED LIKE ORIGAMI. THE INDUSTRY CALLS IT 'TECHNO COUTURE'. IT
IS SOME OF THE CLEVEREST TAILORING IN FASHION.
02HE CAME UP INSIDE THE TEMPLE. WATANABE JOINED COMME DES GARCONS IN
1984 AS A PATTERN CUTTER UNDER REI KAWAKUBO, ROSE TO RUN A LINE,
AND BEGAN SHOWING UNDER HIS OWN NAME, STILL WITHIN CDG, IN 1992.
HE LEARNED DECONSTRUCTION FROM THE MASTER, THEN WENT FURTHER.
03HIS GENIUS IS TECHNICAL. WATANABE DECONSTRUCTS THE PLAINEST
GARMENTS, DENIM, MILITARY SURPLUS, WORKWEAR, AND REBUILDS THEM AS
ASYMMETRIC, PATCHWORKED, ALMOST ARCHITECTURAL PIECES. ORDINARY
CLOTH, EXTRAORDINARY CONSTRUCTION. THE FABRIC IS HUMBLE; THE CUT IS NOT.
04AND HE LOVES A TECHNICAL FABRIC. HIS SPRING 2000 COLLECTION SENT OUT
REVERSIBLE, WATERPROOF, TRANSFORMABLE CLOTHES UNDER THE TITLE
'FUNCTION AND PRACTICALITY'. WHERE OTHERS CHASE PRETTINESS, WATANABE
CHASES HOW A GARMENT ACTUALLY WORKS.
05THE COLLABORATIONS MADE HIM A CULT. WATANABE PAIRED WITH LEVI'S ON
SPLICED DENIM AND WITH THE NORTH FACE ON TECHNICAL OUTERWEAR,
TURNING WORKADAY BRANDS INTO COLLECTORS' PIECES. HE HELPED WRITE
THE RULES OF THE HIGH-FASHION COLLABORATION EVERYONE COPIES NOW.
06THAT IS THE QUIET MASTERY. NO SCANDAL, NO LOUD PERSONA, JUST SEASON
AFTER SEASON OF CLOTHES THAT SOLVE PROBLEMS OTHER DESIGNERS DO NOT
EVEN SEE. WATANABE LETS THE PATTERN-CUTTING DO THE TALKING, AND IT
SAYS A GREAT DEAL.