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How Balenciaga's couture travelled in the 1950s: toiles, patterns and models bought to copy under Chambre Syndicale rules; a spring 1951 ensemble bought for Wanamaker's; an Amsterdam licensee's 1951 Balenciaga

Cristóbal Balenciaga (@balenciaga), born in Getaria in 1895, opened his Paris house at 10 avenue George V in 1937. In the 1950s his couture travelled the way Paris couture did: department stores and foreign houses bought finished models, toiles and paper patterns, with the right to reproduce them a set number of times. The Philadelphia ensemble came into the museum as a gift of John Wanamaker in 1951. The Amsterdam cocktail dress was given to the Rijksmuseum in 1986.

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The post, as it ran

01IN THE 1950S, PARIS COUTURE, BALENCIAGA'S INCLUDED, WAS SOLD TO BUYERS AS TOILES, PAPER PATTERNS OR WHOLE DRESSES, TO BE COPIED.
02THE CHAMBRE SYNDICALE, COUTURE'S GOVERNING BODY, REGULATED IT. EACH DESIGN COULD BE COPIED ONLY A LIMITED NUMBER OF TIMES.
03IN AMSTERDAM, CATHARINA KRUYSVELDT-DE MARE RAN A COUTURE HOUSE FROM 1905 TO 1956, MAKING LICENSED COPIES OF PARIS MODELS.
04FROM 1956, THE PRESS SAW BALENCIAGA'S COLLECTIONS A MONTH AFTER HIS CLIENTS AND BUYERS DID.
05CHRISTIAN DIOR CALLED HIM 'THE MASTER OF US ALL'.
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