01JONATHAN ANDERSON CONTROLS ALL OF DIOR: MENSWEAR, WOMENSWEAR
AND HAUTE COUTURE. NO ONE HAS HELD THAT MUCH OF THE HOUSE SINCE
ITS FOUNDER, CHRISTIAN DIOR HIMSELF. NOT SAINT LAURENT, NOT
GALLIANO, NOT SIMONS. ONE MAN, ONE ENORMOUS HOUSE.
02THE SCALE IS THE STORY. FOR NEARLY 70 YEARS DIOR SPLIT THE WORK: A
COUTURIER HERE, A MENSWEAR DESIGNER THERE, MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI
AND KIM JONES RUNNING SEPARATE KINGDOMS. ANDERSON FOLDED ALL
OF IT UNDER ONE SIGNATURE IN 2025, ARRIVING FROM 11 YEARS AT LOEWE.
03READ THE 'FIRST SINCE CHRISTIAN DIOR' LINE AGAIN, BECAUSE IT IS ALSO
A WARNING. DIOR FOUNDED THE HOUSE IN 1946, UNVEILED THE NEW LOOK
IN 1947, AND WAS GONE BY 1957: A HEART ATTACK AT 52, BARELY A
DECADE IN. THE HOUSE HE BUILT OUTRAN HIM.
04THE REACH IS ALREADY VISIBLE. ANDERSON DRESSED TAYLOR SWIFT FOR
HER JULY WEDDING TO TRAVIS KELCE AT MADISON SQUARE GARDEN, THE
GROOM INCLUDED, DESCRIBED AS DIOR'S FIRST HAUTE COUTURE WEDDING
GOWN FOR A STAR OF THAT SCALE. THREE DAYS LATER, HE OPENED COUTURE.
05HIS CLOTHES ARGUE HE CAN CARRY IT. THE COUTURE TURNED DIOR'S BAR
JACKET BULBOUS AND STRANGE, FOLIAGE ERUPTING UNDER HEMS;
MENSWEAR RAN PREPPY AND ASKEW, TIES KNOTTED INSIDE OUT. FAMILIAR
HOUSE CODES, DISMANTLED AND REBUILT WITH A CURATOR'S EYE.
06THIS IS NOT A CORONATION, IT IS A HIGH WIRE. MORE CREATIVE CONTROL
THAN ANY DESIGNER HAS HAD AT DIOR SINCE THE MAN WHOSE NAME IS ON
THE DOOR, AT A HOUSE WHOSE FOUNDER HELD IT FOR BARELY A DECADE.
FASCINATING, AND PRECARIOUS.