01IN THE EARLY 1990S, GUCCI WAS NEARLY BANKRUPT, A TIRED LEATHER NAME
DROWNING IN INFIGHTING. THEN TOM FORD TOOK OVER THE DESIGN AND
REBUILT IT ON ONE IDEA: SEX. WITHIN A FEW YEARS HE HAD MADE GUCCI
THE HOTTEST NAME ON EARTH, ALL SLINK AND SCANDAL.
02HE ARRIVED IN 1990 AS A WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER AND CLIMBED FAST, TO
CREATIVE DIRECTOR BY 1994. FORD BINNED THE FUSTY MINIMALISM OF THE
MOMENT FOR SLINKY SATIN, CUT-OUT GOWNS, VELVET SUITS AND A
SHAMELESS SEVENTIES GLAMOUR. IT WAS PROVOCATION AS STRATEGY.
03AND IT WORKED COMMERCIALLY, ENORMOUSLY. FORD, WITH CEO DOMENICO DE
SOLE, TURNED A DYING HOUSE INTO A MULTI-BILLION-DOLLAR LUXURY GIANT,
PROVING THAT DESIRE, PROPERLY ENGINEERED, IS ABOUT THE STRONGEST
FORCE THERE IS IN FASHION RETAIL.
04THEN HE BET ON HIMSELF. FORD LEFT GUCCI IN 2004 AND BUILT HIS OWN
BRAND FROM SCRATCH, EYEWEAR, BEAUTY, MENSWEAR, WOMENSWEAR, EACH
WITH THE SAME POLISHED, EXPENSIVE SENSUALITY. HE ALSO BECAME A REAL
FILM DIRECTOR, BECAUSE OF COURSE HE DID.
05AND HE CASHED OUT AT THE TOP. IN 2023 FORD SOLD THE TOM FORD BRAND
TO ESTEE LAUDER FOR ABOUT 2.8 BILLION DOLLARS, ONE OF THE RICHEST
EXITS A DESIGNER HAS EVER MADE ON A NAME HE BUILT HIMSELF. THE
AESTHETE TURNED OUT TO BE A RUTHLESS BUSINESSMAN.
06THAT IS THE WHOLE TOM FORD LESSON. TASTE AND COMMERCE ARE NOT
ENEMIES; DONE RIGHT, DESIRE IS A BUSINESS PLAN. HE SAVED ONE HOUSE
WITH SEX, BUILT ANOTHER INTO A FORTUNE, AND MADE IT ALL LOOK
INEVITABLE. FEW HAVE PLAYED BOTH GAMES THAT WELL.